The Hagen Avicultural Research Institute (HARI) has gained a respected international reputation for its work in avian research, nutrition and husbandry.
Petsfanatics is proud to work with HARI, especially the experts from HARI will answer questions that are brought up by the members here related to avian, nutrition and husbandry.
HARI was established in 1985 and continues to evolve into a world class Psittacine captive breeding, nutrition and disease research facility. Present staff includes the Director, Mark D. Hagen, M.Ag., Consulting Veterinarians Dr. Louise Bauck, Dr. Michael Taylor, three Veterinary Technicians, and three Livestock Attendants. The range of fifty parrot species at HARI is a good representation of parrots currently in captivity. Work is continuing on new diets, healthy treats, and supplements for those birds. The breeding and disease research is shared with breeders all over the world and HARI staff have spoken at all major US avicultural conferences.
If you cannot find the answers you want here, please do not hesitate to contact William Tan with your question for a more detailed answer from our experts !
Health Related
Q. About 3 weeks ago i purchased a baby male cockatiel. If i get another one and keep them in different cages will they both still be friendly, whistle, and talk?
A. Often one pet bird leads to another...rather like a "Lays Potato Chip" where you can't seem to have only one. Your birds should do well as a "flock" as long as you give them both equal routine attention. You are the "flock leader".
Be sure to quarantine any new birds from existing pets to avoid possible disease transmission. Your avian veterinarian can offer more information on this.
Q. My bird is bleeding through a broken feather, what can be done?
A. FIRST AID: BLEEDING
Obviously bleeding birds need to be seen immediately by an avian veterinarian in most cases. However, if you live in an isolated area, it may be helpful to know how to manage until you can find a way to get your bird seen by an avian veterinarian. Injured birds do not tolerate handling well, and it is essential that all items needed are in place before attempting to restrain the bird. Avoid handling until careful observation of the blood pattern has been noted. External surface, respiratory rate, movements, and behavior should be checked and noted. Do not pickup any bird with signs of respiratory distress - rapid breathing, squeaking, or clicking noises – unless the bleeding is obviously continuing; leave those cases strictly to your veterinarian.
DIAGNOSING THE ORIGIN OF THE BLEEDING:
To check one of your own birds that appears to be bleeding, you should still be prepared to immediately release it should the bird show any signs of stress (drooping head, eyes that start to close, etc.). Never grasp the chest in any way -instead secure by gentle restraint of the head or neck. Birds have a calcified windpipe that makes it very difficult to choke them during neck restraint. However they lack a diaphragm and cannot breathe at all unless the chest is completely free to make its excursions. Birds that are actively bleeding should be transported immediately if you are not certain you can help quickly and safely – do not waste time trying to look for the problem if you will be unable to help the bird when you find it. If veterinary help is not immediately available, you may wish to give fluids; use a small syringe (should be in your avian first aid kit) to open the oral cavity and give a few drops of juice, water, or electrolyte solution. Give only in cases where bleeding has occurred prior to your arrival on the scene or has been going on for some time (the bird may be dehydrated). Electrolyte powder can be obtained in advance of any emergency from your veterinarian or pharmacist and made up into oral fluids when needed. Good illumination and magnification should be readily available, as well as a helper. Have cotton swabs and tissues or gauze readily available, and work near a tap and sink with warm running water. If you suspect an injured limb, check each wing, leg and foot. For a bloody wingtip, you may wish to determine if a broken pin feather ('blood feather') has resulted in bleeding or if the wingtip base itself is crushed, bitten, or injured. Using a tap running with warm water to wash away the clotted blood may be of help. Keep the rest of the bird dry and keep the bird warm once handling is finished. For bleeding that seems to be originating elsewhere, gently blow the feathers away from the skin or part them to look for wounds, swellings, or lacerations. Check the tongue inside of the mouth and nostrils carefully with a flashlight (two gauze or cloth loops can be used by a helper to safely open the mouth of a parrot type bird).away. Check the vent carefully for any sign of protrusions or swellings that might be bleeding.
TREATMENT:
Bleeding birds obviously need immediate help. In most cases, a bleeding pin feather is involved and it can be pulled out after cleaning the area (use needle-nosed pliers for large quills). For a bleeding foot or skin injury, apply direct pressure with a clean cloth. Call a medical professional for detailed advice. Wounds on the chest cannot bear much pressure as respiration will be affected. Never apply first aid ointments - or any ointment - to any part of a bird without checking with an avian veterinarian. Most ointments will do irreparable damage to feathers, and many may have serious health effects as well (i.e. steroid ointments).
Louise Bauck BSc, DVM, MVSc.
Q. Why do some quakers lay one or two eggs in a nest box and then always destroy them?
A. There could be a whole range of reasons why a pair of quakers may choose to eat their eggs. We suggest that you consider the possible most common reasons to try to correct the situation.
1. Most birds will destroy their eggs if they feel threatened. This is the bird's instinct. In their minds they can always start a new family when the environment is more suitable for rearing young. Possible intrusions to their well being could be.
a. rodents, snakes, insect
b. Other birds. They might very well feel threatened simply because they know they are different. Quakers are colony type breeders-they seek their own kind to feel safe. If there is a color difference between them and the other birds, this might be just enough to make them feel different.
c. Shortage of food, nesting materials, etc. This kind of resorts to "#a". If the environment is suitable, their instinct is to wait until the circumstances are better.
2. Physiological reasons:
a. Improper nutrition
b. Pathological-get a checkup from a good avian veterinarian. (This is the easiest to rule out).
If you can pull the eggs from the pair, you might consider replacing the real eggs with fake, ceramic eggs. This could be just the trick to "break" the habit. Foster the real eggs with another pair of nesting quakers.
Once again, there are a lot of reasons birds eat eggs- the above mentioned are only a few possibilities
Q. When Bird charcoal and Oyster shell are offered:
1) Would they effect the hardness of the egg?
2) Would it cause difficulties for the babies to crack open the egg?
3) How much and how often should I give them?
1) Oyster Shell is composed of Calcium Carbonate and is important for proper egg shell formation and bone mass.
Charcoal helps neutralize toxins in the stomach.
2) The use of this Supplement should not cause too hard a shell if eaten in small amounts. Baby birds will still hatch out OK and this relies more on good humidity levels in the nest or egg incubator during hatching process.
3) These should be offered in small amounts. Therefore just put a pinch (2 - 3 grams) over seed two or three times a week.
Q. I have recently aquired a Moluccan female, and Greenwing Macaw male from homes that couldn't keep them any longer. The two former owners say the birds have always picked. I am wondering if there is a different diet that I might try with them? Any advice for me?
A. Congratulations on your new family additions! Feather plucking among the cockatoos & macaws is a frequent complaint. The reasons for this can vary, and yes, a good diet is a step in the right direction towards correcting this situation. I would like to recommend that you read Feathers Disorders in Pet Birds found in our Bird Section of our Web site. This will perhaps explains some of the causes of feather problems.
http://www.hagen.com/canada/english/birds/info_sheet.cfm?CAT=8&INFO=3